BEYOND THE PYRAMIDs: the real struggles of modern egyptians
Hello fellow explorers! Today, we will talk about a side of Egypt often overshadowed by its majestic pyramids and ancient pharaoh stories…
Having lived and worked in Cairo, my journey through this vibrant land offered me firsthand insights into the complex situation of modern Egyptian society. This isn’t just about travel troubles; it’s about understanding the deep-rooted issues that affect the lives of the local people.
I decided to write this article because I recently caught up with a dear friend from Egypt that we will call Adam, and our conversation really opened my eyes to what’s going on there right now and how bad the situation has become since I left.
Playing the traditional board game in the Middle East (“Tawla” in arabic, Backgammon in english). It was 11pm and I was with 2 male friends in a local place where I was the only woman hanging out there…
Adam asked me not to mention his real name for safety reasons, he shared his story with me under strict confidentiality. In Egypt, where the government tightly controls dissent, speaking out against the regime can lead to severe consequences. Adam decided to relocate to a South American country recently, awaiting citizenship.
He explained me how living in Egypt became unbearable in terms of economy, politics and society. Moreover, the restrictive travel policies that Egyptians face are crazy…
Coptic Cairo
Before we dive deeper, a quick heads-up: I'm about to touch on some political topics. If that's not your cup of tea, feel free to skip this part. I'm grateful to have the freedom to express my thoughts openly. Thankfully, I'm no longer residing there, which means I can speak without fear of imprisonment.
Let’s dive in folks!
So, what is happening in Egypt right now ?
Al-Sisi sworn into office as President of Egypt on 8 June 2014 after a military coup in 2013. He rules an authoritarian regime with a very strict system of despotism.
This regime has consistently suppressed opposition, restricted press freedoms, and limited the activities of groups and organizations in society that try to bring change. Dissent is not only discouraged but harshly penalized.
Critics of the government, including political activists, journalists, and even social media users, face surveillance, arbitrary detention, and trials that lack basic standards of fairness.
Abdel Fattah El-Sisi
I remember when I was in Cairo back in 2016, I was in a cafe with 2 friends, and I asked them about the Arab Spring in Egypt and they got nervous and started to whisper and told me not to ask about it because we were in a public place, they recommended me to wait until we were in the car. They explained me after, that it was dangerous for them to talk about it since you never know who could be listening…
The absence of democratic processes and harsh penalties for dissent have instilled a pervasive climate of fear and resignation among Egyptians.
Another thing that happened to me while living there was when I was walking in downtown a Saturday morning. I decided to take some pictures close to the Egyptian Museum where I had a tour. All of a sudden I was stopped by the police who forced me to delete the pictures I took of the public buildings after checking them in my camera.
I did not want to, but they forced me telling me I could go to jail and I got scared. The reason being is that they criminalizes sharing pictures that can “damage the country's image".
Downtown Cairo, I was only be able to take this picture of a government building from my friend's car in the evening, not to have problems…
Finally, it should be mentioned that there is a lack of Political Reform. Despite promises, genuine political reforms have not materialized. The parliament is dominated by pro-Sisi parties, and there is little room for democratic processes or dialogue.
The streets of Cairo and its french influence. Khedive Ismâ'îl, known for his passion for architecture and his will to prove that his country was European rather than African, decided to transform the Egyptian capital according to the model of Paris.
Egyptians are Leaving Their Country
In recent years, there has been a noticeable increase in the number of Egyptians leaving their homeland.
My Egyptian friend that is currently living in South America explained me how hard was to go anywhere because of visa restrictions, and how many Egyptians get the Shenguen Visa, buy a ticket to any airport in Europe, and throw away their passport to be able to get asylum.
Cairo and the Nile river
Let's explore the key factors behind this migration trend that are a consequence of the political landscape we explore before:
ECONOMIC HARDSHIPS
High Inflation: The devaluation of the Egyptian pound has led to significant price increases for basic goods and services.
Unemployment: Job opportunities, especially for the youth, are scarce, leading to high unemployment rates.
Poverty: Nearly one-third of the population lives below the poverty line, with economic reforms disproportionately affecting the lower and middle classes.
Khan El Khalili old Bazar
SOCIAL STRUGGLES
Education and Healthcare: The quality of public services has declined, with overcrowded classrooms and underfunded hospitals. Only people that can afford it, are able to go to University.
Social Mobility: The widening gap between rich and poor limits opportunities for social advancement.
Freedom and Human Rights: Repression of freedoms and human rights under Sisi's rule has created a climate of fear and censorship.
CORRUPTION
Corruption affects all levels of government, from major infrastructure projects to daily public services. This undermines economic development and reinforces social inequality.
Drawing a parallel with my experience in Colombia, I can deeply understand these struggles. Living in a corrupt society means constantly navigating a system where extra payments and connections are crucial for basic services.
Everything revolves around contacts and who you know. Your connections can determine whether you land a good job, secure a loan, or obtain an important government document. You have to be cautious about who you refuse, as they can potentially ruin your life.
By the Nile, Cairo
During my time there, I had a group of friends, including one particular who would always cover our expenses. Whether we were eating out or going to the cinema, he insisted on paying. It soon became clear that he wasn't actually paying for anything. He carried a card (I supposed it was a military one) that he flashed everywhere, which garnered respect because his family was powerful and well-known from the military.
He was taking advantage of this privilege, something we only realized much later. Needless to say, he is no longer my friend.
Thanks for reading.
Natalia Cortes. May 2024
