surviving india as a woman, a wild, wonderful, and wacky adventure

Sadar Bazar, Jaisalmer. India

Hey guys! Welcome back to another article about India this time. In 2018 I traveled 8 weeks on my own in India, starting in New Delhi and visiting the region of Rajasthan.

Connaught Palace, New Delhi.

The palace inside

Aladdin movie, Disney

You may not have heard of Rajasthan, but if I mention Disney's Aladdin, it might ring a bell. The movie drew inspiration from various locations in India, many of which are found in the vibrant region of Rajasthan.

Shoes at the market in Ossian

Rajasthan is one of the most colorful and traditional regions in India and it is the largest state by area. It has been called “The Land of the kings”for its palaces, fortress and temples, but it is also well known for its crafts, cuisine, history, and cultural melting pot. The shoes of Aladdin and Jasmine in the movie are from Rajasthan.

Traveling to India as a woman can feel like stepping into another universe, one bursting with vibrant colors, chaotic streets, ancient history, hospitality, music and an intensity that shakes all your senses.

The streets of Jaisalmer, India

My journey was a mix of awe-inspiring moments and "Oh my God, what have I gotten myself into?" But I do not regret it!, I had so much fun, met amazing people, and became a vegetarian the whole time.

Jaisalmer desert

I also dressed the whole time with Indian clothe and accessories and respected the culture.

Zinc Park, Udaipur

Here’s a survival guide inspired by my experience; full of tips, stories, and advice for women planning to explore India.

1. Stay Safe After Dark: The Metro Chronicles

Let’s start with the golden rule: avoid being out alone after dark. I learned this the hard way on my first night in Delhi when I returned late and found myself surrounded by men in the metro and on the streets, I was a bit shocked to see I was the only woman walking around there. It felt awkward, alarming and dangerous.

I watched a Bollywood movie being in India and it was the story of a 30 year old girl traveling alone and in the movie the men said: “a woman alone is an open box”. Movies and series of a country are the best way to understand the cuture.

The first time I learnt how to eat with my hands

The key? Plan your outings so you’re safely back at your hotel by dusk or stick to women’s compartments in public transport, but I better advice you to take uber.

Metro in New Delhi, women compartment.

If you can’t avoid being out at night, stay alert, avoid deserted areas, and make sure someone knows your location. And speaking of knowing your location... check the next one

2. The Uber Hustle: Outwit, Outlast, Outsmart

Navigating Uber in India is like a game of chess: patience and strategy are everything. Many drivers don’t know how to use the app or pretend they don’t. Often, I had to pull up Google Maps on my phone to ensure we weren’t heading somewhere else. But with GPS, this was a test of nerves.

Kanwar Nagar, Jaipur

Sometimes i would get to my hotel exhausting, sometimes they pretend they do not understand english so you have to look angry. India was a British colony, so most of the people speak English.

Silawatwari, Udaipur

Always share your live location with someone. Casually mention to the driver that someone is waiting for you at your destination (bonus points if you say "my husband"). A little bluffing goes a long way in setting boundaries and ensuring a safe ride.

3. Handle the Paparazzi: Unwanted Photos

If you’re a foreign woman, congrats! you’re a celebrity! People may snap pictures of you without asking and sometimes with flash (no kidding). While traveling I would be stop at least once per day for pictures, I tried to be as relaxed as possible and asked a picture back.

On a 14-hour train to Kolkata, strangers popped into my compartment just to click photos of me sleeping, that was pretty annoying…One girl came to my bed (it was a 27 hour train) and decided to go alive on instagram recording me trying to hide it, I realized about it 20 minutes after talking to her. I laughed it off, but if this feels invasive, don't hesitate to speak up.

Visiting a sikh temple

4. Channel Your Inner Warrior: Tuk-Tuk Tango

In Jaipur, tuk-tuk drivers were relentless, flirting and hounding me to hop in for a ride. Thankfully, being Colombian equipped me with a street-smart, no-nonsense attitude. Here’s my secret: stop walking, look them in the eye, and firmly say "No". If needed, raise your voice slightly, they’ll get the hint and get scared of a latin character. Thanks to Hinduism’s influence, most Indian men avoid confrontation.

But if street-smart isn’t your forte, consider hiring a guide. It’s worth the peace of mind.

5. Dress the Part: Respect and Blend In

Jodhpur

I love Indian accessories

When it comes to clothing, respect for local norms isn’t just about blending in, it’s about enjoying a smoother, safer experience. In traditional towns, I wore a kurta (long Indian tunic) and sometimes covered my hair. It made a world of difference. Not only did I feel more respected, but locals were also warmer and more protective.

Jaisalmer desert

On the flip side, I met a German traveler who insisted on wearing shorts. While I admire her confidence, she faced constant harassment and uncomfortable stares. Trust me, dressing modestly isn’t about losing your identity, it’s about owning your experience. Moreover, I enjoyed so much dressing with colorful kurtas the whole time, they are si beautiful and traditional.

6. Learn a Little Hindi: Big Rewards

Jodhpur market

A few Hindi phrases can work magic. Whether bargaining at markets or haggling for a tuk-tuk, locals appreciate the effort. It also helps avoid the infamous “foreigner tax” (where prices triple if you look European or white American).

The Indian world has similar things with the Arab world, they appreciate if you say hi, thank you, and bye in their language. Let me teach you some: Hi is “Namaste”, thank you is “Donabad”, and bye is “Alvida”.

Amar Sagar Pol, Jaisalmer

Every-time I would go to a market, I would get away from my European friends hahaha and bargain like in South America.

In India, they think because you have fair skin you are rich, I would always say “come on, I am Colombian, Colombia is like India, same. I am not american, give me indian price” and they will laugh their ass off and give me 5 times less the price than before. 

Jodhpur, India

Plus, speaking even a little Hindi opens doors to the warmth and hospitality of Indian culture, cue spontaneous chai invites and heartwarming conversations. 

A Funny Story to Wrap It Up

In Jaipur, I met an American girl fresh off a group tour. Unlike me, she’d seen India from a cushy bus window and was shocked I explored solo. Inspired, she decided to try it. The next evening, she admitted she’d panicked when locals followed her, cried, and returned to her hotel. She hired a local man to chaperone her for shopping instead.

Sisodia Rani Palace, Jaipur

At first, I judged her. But then I realized not everyone is born with the street-survival chip we Colombians inherit. I reminded myself to be compassionate, after all, every traveler’s journey is unique.

Final Thoughts

India is a dazzling, chaotic, and challenging place to navigate as a woman. But it’s also full of rewards: cultural treasures, unforgettable people, and life lessons you’ll carry forever. Embrace the adventure, stay street-smart, and keep a sense of humor…It’s all part of the ride.

Monkey Temple Galtaji, Jaipur

Safe travels, ladies! And remember: in India, you’re never really alone…for better or for worse… I personally have been 3 times, and I love the amount of culture you can find there. India is worth the visit for sure, it is a beautiful place!

Galtaji, Jaipur

Thank you for reading!

Natalia Cortes

March 2018, New Delhi

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